My bus trip to Pushkar - such a lovely name - went quickly and wasn't an ordeal at all, though hot as hell in the unairconditioned bus even with the sliding window open. I thought it was funny that the two german backpackers opposite spent the entire time reading their German Lonely Planet Guide to India instead of looking out the window! Mind you it wasn't all that spectacular but every now and again something surprising would flash by - like a camel, or loaded up donkeys, a strange little temple, or a classic rural scene such as a colourful woman with cows under a tree, or men peeing onto a wall - whatever! I had booked my first night at one of the recommended places, "Seventh Heaven" but the only available room was No 1, the most expensive - double what I had paid per night in Jaipur. The Hotel entrance was a huge ancient wooden double door with a tiny door through one into a lovely scented courtyard with a fountain.The staff greeting me were really friendly and pleased i had turned up for their most expensive room., to which I was soon escorted, on the 3rd, and uppermost floor - so it had great views.
I think it would be best described as the Honeymoon Suite as it had a massive canopied double bed with curtains all round and mirrors, drapes and cushions, a bit like something from the Arabian Nights with a domed ceiling, stained glass lamps and a low recliner, a writing desk and large seperate bathroom. There were even some books, and the one that caught my desperate eye, and perhaps should not have been surprised to see in such a romantic room as this was "The Missionary Position" . I was quite excited to see it actually,because I had heard of this book and so I read most of it while having my dinner in the rooftop restaurant a couple of hours later. There were no pictures or illustrations and sorry to disappoint but its actually a critque by my old friend Christopher Hitchens of the life and work of Mother Theresa. She's dead now of course but among other things he felt her work needed much more in the way of critical investigation and a lot less hysterical adulation. When she received the Nobel Peace Prize - for having done nothing about peace according to Hitchens - she said the greatest scourge facing mankind was abortion, but of course being seriously catholic she utterly opposed contraception, and didnt seem to see a link between overpopulation and poverty. Indeed according to Hitchens her work was essentially "missionary work " that is spreading the Gospel, and "the poor" were the vehicle she used to advance the Gospel. She was obviously a good woman but in Hitchens view seriously over-rated. A good read, believe me!
I had company that night in the Honeymoon suite : mosquitoes! And I was woken by dogs barking and cows bellowing in the street below so I got up early and wandered through the initially almost deserted streets watching the stalls being opened, people getting food and starting their daily routines, and monkeys. I found the lake edge and the 'ghats" which are broad stairways that descend to the water. Here hindu people and their families come to be blessed and to pray and bathe in the sacred water. Guide books warn of the scams that also operate here but also suggest participation so eventually I decided to just get on with it and participate in the ritual. For my "donation - he was suggesting 2000 rupees- a priest prays for me and all my family and our futures, annoints me with water and dabs my forehead with crimson paint, and ties an orange and yellow string round my wrist - my "passport" he said, so that once done I dont have to go through it again. My "puja" was 500 Rupees - maybe $12? Plus then I got to take my photos!
After that I went to a rooftop restaurant and had my breakfast overlooking the lake. Amazing views.
PS If you click on the Photos they should open out into a much better pic. In the top one if you do that you will see Monkeys
My bus trip to Pushkar - such a lovely name - went quickly and wasn't an ordeal at all, though hot as hell in the unairconditioned bus even with the sliding window open. I thought it was funny that the two german backpackers opposite spent the entire time reading their German Lonely Planet Guide to India instead of looking out the window! Mind you it wasn't all that spectacular but every now and again something surprising would flash by - like a camel, or loaded up donkeys, a strange little temple, or a classic rural scene such as a colourful woman with cows under a tree, or men peeing onto a wall - whatever! I had booked my first night at one of the recommended places, "Seventh Heaven" but the only available room was No 1, the most expensive - double what I had paid per night in Jaipur. The Hotel entrance was a huge ancient wooden double door with a tiny door through one into a lovely scented courtyard with a fountain.The staff greeting me were really friendly and pleased i had turned up for their most expensive room., to which I was soon escorted, on the 3rd, and uppermost floor - so it had great views.
PS If you click on the Photos they should open out into a much better pic. In the top one if you do that you will see Monkeys
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